When a wave comes as you stand in the surf, you have the choice to try to run from it or face it. If you try to run, then when it inevitably catches up with you, it will take you from behind, knock you down, and take away all of your control. If, on the other hand, you face it, braced against the seabed, you will still go under, but, when it passes, you will still be standing.
tried this, though “jumping” instead of walking, and couldn’t swim yet. But was going in the wrong direction while thinking I can’t see the shore because it’s too far. Dad pulled me out so that’s nice.
When a wave comes as you stand in the surf, you have the choice to try to run from it or face it. If you try to run, then when it inevitably catches up with you, it will take you from behind, knock you down, and take away all of your control. If, on the other hand, you face it, braced against the seabed, you will still go under, but, when it passes, you will still be standing.
tried this, though “jumping” instead of walking, and couldn’t swim yet. But was going in the wrong direction while thinking I can’t see the shore because it’s too far. Dad pulled me out so that’s nice.